If there is a cliché in gunsmithing articles, it must be installing a recoil pad. It’s been “done to death” as they say. But, like most clichés, it’s popular for a reason. This is an easy project with which to “get your feet wet.”
    Measure the butt of your gun and order a recoil pad that is slightly wider and longer. Make sure it’s the style and design you want. The recoil pad must be larger than the gunstock at all points around the perimeter, and have enough extra material to carry the angled lines of the toe and heel out to the edge of the recoil pad. However, do not get a recoil pad that is too big, as some contain an internal metal frame, and if you sand enough of the recoil pad away, the frame will show. I learned this the hard way!
     If you want to adjust the gun’s length of pull, now is the time. Just remember to add the recoil pad thickness to your final measurement. If you want to retain the same length of pull, you will need to shorten the stock the same amount as the thickness of the recoil pad.
    Use a table saw with a high-quality 80-tooth carbide trim-and-finish blade to minimalize chipping. Set the ripping fence on the table saw to maintain the correct distance for the amount you wish to cut off. Remember to measure from the opposite side of the saw blade to allow for the width of the cut.
    Use the crosscut guide to push the stock, and angle it so that it pushes the stock with the butt perfectly square to the saw blade. It may require a shim or two under the front of the stock to keep the angle correct. It should go without saying that you need eye protection when running the saw.
    At this point, it’s a good idea to seal the wood. Use polyurethane that has been thinned according to the instructions on the can. The wood should soak up the first couple of coats. When the stock stops absorbing the cut polyurethane, finish with a couple of coats of uncut polyurethane. This will protect the stock from water damage.
    Most recoil pads require that you pierce the rubber to allow the screws to enter. Push a punch through the holes from the backside so it stretches the rubber on the recoil pad side. Use a small, thin, new and sharp utility knife to make a small vertical slit centered in the stretched portion of the recoil pad. After making the cut and releasing the pressure from the punch, the slit should not be visible. Generously lubricate the holes with liquid dish soap and carefully insert the screws. You will need a screwdriver that has a round shank, and the best choice would be one that is chrome-plated and very smooth. A square or rough shank will tear the rubber and damage the recoil pad.

Another way to do the job is to finish sanding the recoil pad on the stock which requires a deft touch and may mean refinishing the wood.

    Carefully center the recoil pad, and insert a sharp punch or large nail through the holes. Tap the nail with a hammer to mark the location to drill for the screws. If they are too close to the existing holes you may need to fill them. To do that, drill to 1/4" and insert a piece of 1/4" wooden dowel that you have coated with epoxy. Cut the dowel off and sand or file it flush to the stock. After the glue has set, you can drill the new holes.
    Install the recoil pad on the stock. It will be oversize and should overlap the stock all the way around its perimeter. There are a couple of ways to go from here. One is to scribe a line all around the recoil pad at the edge of the stock. Then use a jig to do the grinding. Unless you are planning to refinish the stock, this is the safest way to go.
    To use the jig made by Miles Gilbert, and available from Midway USA, mount the recoil pad on the jig backside up, and set the toe angle as explained in the instructions. Hold the base of the jig on the platform of the sander. It is a good idea to check the platform for square before starting. Sand the recoil pad on a disc or belt sander until just taking the scribe line. Remember the line was made outside of the stock, so you must sand to the inside of the scribe line for the best fit. This is tricky, so work slowly and carefully. Once the toe is shaped, reset the jig angle for the heel. Sand the heel to the scribe line, again just taking the line. Then reset the jig and sand the sides. You may want to finish with a sanding block. Finally, install the recoil pad.

When using a jig to do the grinding, first scribe a guide line around the recoil pad at the stock’s edge.

The Miles Gilbert jig allows the toe and heel angles to be set and sanded in separate steps.

    The other method is to sand the recoil pad on the stock. This often gives the best fit, but risks damaging the stock. Simply sand the recoil pad, following the same lines as the stock, but be very careful not to hit the stock with the abrasive. Make sure that you carry the lines of the stock out to the end of the recoil pad. Follow the lines of the toe and heel all the way to the end of the recoil pad.
    Wrap the stock near the recoil pad with two layers of masking tape and cover the top layer with marks from a permanent felt marker or pencil. When you start to see these marks disappear you know you are getting close, as the sander is hitting the tape. At that point, it’s best to stop with the power sander and work with a sanding block. Finish with a single layer of tape that is marked and sand until those marks start to disappear from sanding. Be very careful not to sand through the masking tape. If you are going to refinish the stock you can forget the tape and sand the wood and recoil pad at the same time for a perfect match.
    Make sure you add more soap to lubricate the screwdriver when installing the recoil pad and then snug the screws down tight.
That’s it, you are done.